Chain Tightening

[swll360]

Here it is, Last night i noticed that my chain was gett'n really loose so it tighten it up. Didn't check it until today. Well, i took it for a spin around the block and didn't make it 10ft before i realized it was too tight. So after mess'n with if for a bit it get everything lined (according to the notches in the swing arm) and geting a right amount of tension on the chain, it started feeling weird when i took it for a spin. Made a Popping noise. I took the weight of the rear wheel and spun it in neutral.

Here's the problem,

The chain will have slack in it when i spin it except for certain spots. It'll then get real tight for a short period then loose'n again...

[pulse]

just make sure that the slack on the chain is the same on teh top and the bottom and if so then it should be fine. if the chain is tight on top and loose on the bottom then it may be a problem. but when you look at your chain will the bike is on a rear stand and the tire is spinning in first gear, it will appear to tighten and loosen, that is normal i believe. as far as the noise you are hearing...u may have a kink in your chain so every time it goes around it makes a noise..that is my guess

[Arnold_R1]

Originally posted by swll360

Here's the problem,

The chain will have slack in it when i spin it except for certain spots. It'll then get real tight for a short period then loose'n again...

Believe it or not, I had the same problem. Ask GPTECH, Bryant, Greg, etc. When I spun the wheel, some areas would be really loose and some area would so tight that the wheel wouldn't spin anymore. Chances are your teeth on your sprocket is worn out or your chain has a kink in it. How many miles do you have on the chain.

[GPTECHMAN]

That means new time for a chain....trust me I know....broken chain on the 15 sparks flying everywhere...no good.

That chain is spent and probably all kinked to hell. no amount of chain klube will help....check out calsportbikes on a current chain deal. I'd say to ggo with either a DID if you love your bike and have a little more cash flow, or get an RK or EK. maybe now is a good time to do a chain conversion....maybe to a 520???

Oh and my recommendation is to swap out your sprockets at the same time as well...it'll help in the life of your chain....

and I think taht the chain go most likely got that way due to lack of scheduled chain lubage....3-400 miles...

[swll360]

Good Look'n....On a negitive note...That **** Sucks... On a Positive note...I always love gett'n new thing for the bike....


DAMN IT.... I just sunk 650 on new fiberglass...130 on paint,clear, and primer. :mad: I'm now apart of the broke club.....:cry:

[Arnold_R1]

Depending on what type of riding you do, a chain and sprocket shouldn't set you back too much! Somewhere around $120-180 depending on which set up you choose i.e-520/525/530- -1 front/+2 rear.

[swll360]

I'm check'n out new chain a sprocket's. If i go down a tooth up front, do i need to go down a tooth in the rear?. Or how about going up a tooth in the front and rear?...I don't know to much about this kinda thing...

[Arnold_R1]

Originally posted by swll360
I'm check'n out new chain a sprocket's. If i go down a tooth up front, do i need to go down a tooth in the rear?. Or how about going up a tooth in the front and rear?...I don't know to much about this kinda thing...

Like I said, it kind of boils down to what type of riding you do- Stunt like the Sac town Ruff Ryders :blink: Commute, Track, Canyons, etc. If you don't mind going through chains and sprockets and want faster revs, go 520! 520=thinner chain/535 thickest chain. You could keep the stock gearing on the SV or if you want more low end or high end power, switch the teething, either by dropping a tooth in the front or adding teeth in the rear. It's pretty much up to you!

[swll360]

as far as chains...Clip style master links or rivet style master links???:confused:

[burst]

for your bike go up one or two teeth on the rear sprocket and stick with the stock 15 tooth front. I have been running a 520 conversion and have noticed ZERO benefit for any riding I do... Most on this board will tell you that I don't exactly ride slow either. I would get the 525 with a 15 front and a 46 or 47 tooth rear. You won't be sorry. And stay away from RK chains... DID or Tsubaki are the way to go. I always go with DID, they last a long time and considering I am really really bad about chain maintenance that is very important for me.

[swll360]

Noted....Thanx

[burst]

oh yeah.... if you do go with a clip type master link DEFINITELY make sure it is a DID chain... I have ridden a DID chain with no clip on the master link on the track, and for about 3-400 miles at a time, several different times on the street and the link has never come apart. The one RK chain I had, the clip broke and the chain came apart instantly.

[swll360]

Got a professional opion today and he even told me the chain was shot. So i went with the DID chain and AFAM 520 Conversion. Thanx for all of your help.

[nikzoom]

Originally posted by swll360
as far as chains...Clip style master links or rivet style master links???:confused:

I prefer rivot masterlinks, but the only problem is that you'll need a rivot tool to install it, and they ain't cheap. If you do use the clip type, apply some silicone RTV in between the clip and side plate. That'll help keep your clip in place. Just make sure the side plate is clean before applying RTV silicone.

http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/Photos/ChainPhotos/SiliconMasterLink.jpg

[swll360]

Damn Rodger.....You're the man. Thanx

[Arnold_R1]

Originally posted by nikzoom
I prefer rivot masterlinks, but the only problem is that you'll need a rivot tool to install it, and they ain't cheap. If you do use the clip type, apply some silicone RTV in between the clip and side plate. That'll help keep your clip in place. Just make sure the side plate is clean before applying RTV silicone.

http://faq.f650.com/FAQs/Photos/ChainPhotos/SiliconMasterLink.jpg

That's a regular clip-type link, not a rivet link. Depending on what D.I.D chain you got, a rivet link is the only way to connect it. Like for example the ER series chains are only rivet. You can get a chain braker and riveting tool together at Cycle Gear for around $60.